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When assembling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. Yet, tucked prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.